Attention - read carefully below if you're in search for an autolevel firmware for your printer with atmega 1280!
Every "hyper" marked firmware is especially compiled to fit inside an ATMEGA 1280 with all the functionalities enabled (atmega1280 and atmega2560, from our point of view, only differ in the size of the programmable memory, 128k the first, 256k the later, the sram is exactly the same for the two!)
every "2560" marked firmware is ONLY for the ATMEGA2560 boards! don't try to flash in a 1280 as they won't work!
Every firmware that ends with r1809b (different from r1809 WITHOUT THE 'B') is for boards with BROKEN SD card reader (broken sd = 1)
Every firmware with hyper or 2560 in their name have those feature enabled:
'AUTO_LEVEL', 'AUTO_LEVEL_IGNORE_ZMIN_ONBUILD', 'COOLING_FAN_PWM'
Meaning that they will contain auto leveling (auto skew), if autoleveling and when printing, they will ignore zmin_endstop thus allowing the plate to be trimmed even below the eventual proximity sensor endstop, and since the firmware has a offset Z adjust during print, it will help you set the Z home offset to a good level, to help you with that first level, for better adhesion.
Every firmware with ZMAX in their name have this particular feature enabled:
'USE_ZMAX_HOME'
When used, any printer will use the Z-MAX as homing, this will allow, for modified printer with autoleveling probe on zmin to use the zmax for homing purposes.
WARNING * * WARNING * * WARNING * * WARNING * * WARNING
without a zmax switch on the bottom, the heatead plate will hit it and you can damage your machine! Consider that if you have your zmin only on your probe, you can't home via menu, since as the x/y are zeroed, after that operation zmin will begin to hit the upper parts of your printer; so if you installed the zmax switch this is the right firmware to you!
IF YOU HAVEN'T MODIFIED THE PRINTER, IF YOU DON'T HAVE A ZMAX SWITCH AND IF YOU'RE NOT USING THE PROBE AS ZMIN, DON'T USE THIS ONE.
ALSO, make sure to edit, in the printer menu, your probe OFFSET, since it's supposedly not on the same position as the nozzle, you have to calculate that, remembering that negative values are near to the front panel, and positive value is far on the Y axis, negative for X is to the left, positive to the right (try to put a correct value, for correct skew level evaluation).
The cooling fan PWM is a cool feature that I've enabled in all the "hyper" version, i've made a GPX executable that will work for simplify3d (a paid software, that used an old customized gpx version, but never distributed the source, I recovered their mods), for other software or for latest gpx, there is the version of @pszczelaszkov available here: https://github.com/pszczelaszkov/GPX
avr-gcc used: 4.9.2 - on raspberry pi model B
Please, test your environment and if something doesn't work as expected send me an issue, but don't expect really quick responses, as I'm really busy!
PROCEDURE TO UPDATE FIRMWARE:
attached to this release there is an archive named "tools.7z", this is the main program you will be using to upload the firmware to your bot.
You will have to decompress the archive in a directory, open a command line prompt and go inside that directory.
To make everything easy I will suppose you have your bot in COM3 and the firmware file inside the directory were you decompressed the "tools.7z", and that your firmware filename, in this example, is NEWFIRMWARE.HEX
Press the reset button and immediately execute this command, accordingly to your atmega
for atmega1280:
avrdude -Cavrdude.conf -cstk500v1 -P.\COM3 -b57600 -D -Uflash:w:NEWFIRMWARE.HEX:i -pm1280
for atmega2560
avrdude -Cavrdude.conf -cstk500v2 -P.\COM3 -b57600 -D -Uflash:w:NEWFIRMWARE.HEX:i -pm2560
If you have tried many times and you can't succeed in uploading the firmware, try changing -b57600 to -b115200
small note:
all CTC Bizer or similar printers use MIGHTY_ONE firmwares, so look for them!